A quiet war, fought on the ground

Every Somali town has a corner where this game is running.

Under a tree at the edge of the market, on the paving outside a shop, in the shade of a wall by the port: two men crouched over twenty-four points, and a ring of onlookers telling them both what to do. It is a war fought with pebbles.

An early twentieth-century postcard: a group of Somali men crouched around a board drawn on the ground, pieces scattered across it, while others stand over them holding spears and shields.
Shaxda jeexannaye jaalkayoow,jare haddaan yeesho,marna inaan ku jixinjixeyn,jiri calooshaada…
My friend, the board is drawn between us,and if I cut a jare,know that I will not go gently with you.Steady your stomach.

traditional (suugaan bulsho)

On film

See it played, and hear the talk around it

The board is only half of it. The rest is the crowd, the argument, and the verse a player drops when he has you beaten.

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